Fanning the coals
Clearing the stem.
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Clearing the stem.
Hookah reached Russia in the 19th century, but the hookah industry itself only took shape between 2008 and 2013 — at the crossing of tourism, an enthusiast community, and federal law No. 15-FZ.
The Russian word «кальян» (kalyan) is Persian in origin: it traces back to the Persian «galyan», itself linked to the Arabic root «gal» — «to boil» (Great Russian Encyclopedia, vol. 12, 2008, entry «Kalyan»). This exact form took root not only in Russian but also in Ukrainian, Belarusian, Moldovan, Kazakh, Tajik, Kyrgyz, Lithuanian, Latvian, and Estonian.
In Central Asia — Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Turkmenistan, and other Turkic-speaking regions — a different word is used historically, «chilim»: not an archaic form or a synonym of «kalyan», but a parallel term for the same device. A similar picture appears in Armenia, where the form «kalyan» is used alongside «nargila» — two parallel borrowings, Persian and Russian respectively.
The first documented zone of contact was not the capital but the periphery: Central Asia and the Caucasus. After Samarkand was absorbed into the Turkestan Governorate-General, Russian officials, military officers, and documentary painters worked there. One of them was Vasily Vereshchagin, who arrived in the region at the invitation of Turkestan Governor-General K. P. Kaufman in 1867 and, after several expeditions, produced his «Turkestan Series» (1867–1874). A photograph of a different kind survives as well — Sergei Prokudin-Gorsky's «Man with a Hookah», taken in Samarkand before 1917: one of the few documentary traces of hookah use on the territory of the Russian Empire from that period. For a broader account of hookah's origins and spread as a phenomenon, see «History of Hookah»; for how it is woven into the everyday traditions of specific regions, see «Regional Hookah Traditions».
The common claim that hookah was «fashionable» among the nobility of 19th-century St. Petersburg and Moscow is, at present, no more than a claim. Checking the sources that could confirm it — biographies of the era's public figures, material on Eastern motifs in Russian art — turned up not a single case with a name, a date, and a specific object attached. The documented contact between the Russian Empire and hookah culture is limited to exactly the periphery — Central Asia and the Caucasus — not the drawing rooms of the capital. That does not mean hookah was absent from noble life altogether; it means the claim currently has no documentary support, and it should not be presented as an established fact.
This legend circulates often, but no regulation, decree, or article of law introducing a specific ban on hookah in the USSR turns up in the sources. A more likely explanation is that hookah simply never gained wide currency in the RSFSR after the 1920s, remaining a regional practice in Central Asia and parts of the Caucasus, where the terms «kalyan» and «chilim» stayed part of everyday life. In other words, the claim that «hookah disappeared in the USSR» only holds for the European part of the country — absence of a trend should not be equated with a ban. For a broader account of how states in different eras and countries regulated hookah smoking — from Ottoman edicts to modern laws — see «History of Smoking Bans: From Murad IV to Modern Laws».
Modern Russia's mass introduction to hookah was driven by tourism, not history: in the 1990s and 2000s, Russians began traveling to Egypt in large numbers and tried hookah there for the first time. The device was brought back as a souvenir, and Middle Eastern restaurants started offering hookah as an add-on service — «fruit hookahs» served alongside the regular menu rather than as a standalone product. At the same time, only a narrow slice of the audience could afford restaurant hookah in the 1990s and 2000s; smoking at home or at the dacha was a far more common practice.
Serious interest in hookah as an industry, rather than merely entertainment, formed between 2008 and 2010. During this period, the UAE brand Al Fakher held the lead on that market, while Russian enthusiasts began trying the American tobaccos Tangiers and Fumari and the Egyptian brand Nakhla. One of the first people to approach the industry systematically was Anton Gaivoronsky, founder of the Hookah Place lounge and owner of JohnCalliano Lounge: he launched the video blog JohnCallianoTV, with hookah reviews, interviews, and reports from tobacco trade shows, which did much to shape the Russian-speaking hookah community of that era.
Two separate events need to be told apart. Russia's first acquaintance with hookah happened in Middle Eastern restaurants back in the 1990s — but there, hookah was served as an addition to food, not a standalone format. The hookah lounge as a distinct type of venue came later: in 2013, Anton Gaivoronsky opened HookahPlace in Moscow, on Lubyanka — in his own words, «one of the first venues specifically built around hookah»: no food, no alcohol, only hookah and tea, in a loft-style design instead of the customary «Eastern» interior. Two months later, a second dedicated venue opened on Chistye Prudy — Alexey Slepenkov's F-Lounge, which took roughly 500,000–700,000 rubles to launch.
At the end of 2013, amendments to Federal Law No. 15-FZ of 23.02.2013, «On the Protection of Citizens' Health from the Effects of Secondhand Tobacco Smoke and the Consequences of Tobacco Consumption», came into force, banning hookah smoking on the premises of catering establishments. Restaurants started getting fined, and hookah began moving out of the restaurant format — the «era of dedicated hookah venues» opened up. In 2014, a new large-scale format appeared — «Shishka Lounge», which sources describe as «a full-fledged business»: substantial rent, a staff of employees. It was projects like this one that pushed the industry into a proper legal framework.
HookahPlace and F-Lounge became Russia's first franchised hookah lounge chains. By 2015, HookahPlace had sold around 50 franchises, and by 2018 — more than 150, including a venue in the United States and a presence in Europe. According to Gaivoronsky, 2018 was the peak year for new openings, after which the pandemic slowed the pace of growth. By 2022, the chain comprised more than 200 venues across Russia, plus the Hookah Market retail chain — more than 120 stores.
Alongside the growth in venues, a domestic tobacco industry took shape in Russia. The DARKSIDE brand produces tobacco in the strong category, bearing Russian excise stamps; according to Discovery Research Group, DARKSIDE became Russia's leading exporter of hookah tobacco in 2018. Import statistics point the same way: annual tobacco imports into Russia fell from roughly 300 tons in the industry's early years to roughly 30 tons in 2017–2018 — demand shifted toward domestic production. Other business models emerged later: in 2020, the company Must Have launched a tobacco outsourcing format, where a client received a tobacco base and flavorings to launch a brand of their own; DUFT operated on a similar model. For a broader look at where and how hookah tobacco is made today, see «Where Hookah Tobacco Is Made: A Geography of Production».
From 2017 to 2020, the number of hookah lounges in Russia's million-plus cities grew by 130%. According to hookah master Vladimir Denezhkin, who has worked in the industry since 2013, the three cities with the highest concentration of hookah lounges are Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Kazan. The Hookah Hub catalog today brings together 278 hookah tobacco brands, and a noticeable share of them are Russian — a direct consequence of the turning point described above, between 2013 and 2018.
Was hookah banned in the USSR? No documentary support for this has been found — more likely, it simply never spread widely in the RSFSR after the 1920s, remaining an everyday practice in Central Asia and parts of the Caucasus.
When did Russia's first dedicated hookah lounge open? In 2013 — HookahPlace on Lubyanka in Moscow, followed two months later by F-Lounge on Chistye Prudy.
Which law separated restaurants from hookah lounges in Russia? Amendments passed at the end of 2013 to Federal Law No. 15-FZ, banning hookah smoking on catering premises.
Who was a major Russian exporter of hookah tobacco in 2018? DARKSIDE — according to Discovery Research Group.
When did a community of hookah enthusiasts take shape in Russia? Around 2008–2010, alongside the arrival of foreign tobacco brands on the market and the first dedicated video blogs.
For the earlier and broader history of hookah as a phenomenon, see «History of Hookah». For how the device was smoked and regulated across different countries, see «Regional Hookah Traditions» and «History of Smoking Bans: From Murad IV to Modern Laws». And for where and how tobacco is produced today, see «Where Hookah Tobacco Is Made: A Geography of Production».